Belaying and descending on multi-pitch climbs on a single rope (source Petzl)
WARNINGS
- Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
- It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information.
- Mastering these techniques requires training.
- Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.
While climbing:
1. Belaying the leader dynamically
AWith the GRIGRI, the belayer moves in order to make it dynamic.
On a multi-pitch route, this movement is limited by the risk of hitting the station. A long lanyard gives the belayer room to move.
2. Belaying the second
The leader can climb light with a REVERSO, which is convenient for belaying the second.
Descending on a blocked rappel
The single rope must be installed with a blocking technique and a retrieval cord that allows recovery. Descending can be done with the GRIGRI or the REVERSO (with back-up device or knot).
Do not descend on the retrieval cord; it is used only to recover the rope.
Examples of blocking the rope
[col 33 left text_left]
Risk of the knot passing through the quick link, even though it may appear blocked.
This technique does not allow descending on a single rope.
[col 33 inline_left text_left]
[picto picto_open /] Blocked on a small quick link with back-up.
If the knot goes through the quick link, the fall will be stopped, but rope recovery will be complicated.
[picto picto_rm /] Second rappel can be set up only after the rope has been fully retrieved.
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[picto picto_open /] Blocked with a large knot.
[picto picto_rm /] Second rappel can be set up only after the rope has been fully retrieved.
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[picto picto_open /] Blocked without a rope-joining knot, with auto-locking carabiner.
[picto picto_open /] Second rappel can be set up without threading the rope through the quick link.
[picto picto_rm /] With a large quick link, risk of poor carabiner positioning and/or stuck rope.
Warning:
[picto picto_rm /] Blocking techniques are cumbersome.; beware of sticking the rope: if the single rope gets stuck out of reach, the retrieval cord can not be used to belay for the recovery.
[picto picto_rm /] The difference in diameter between the ropes may dictate using a double fisherman's knot instead of a classic joining knot.
[picto picto_rm /] The blocking carabiner may fall during recovery. This carabiner must be inspected before any further use.
Author and source
This Petzl technical documentation is shared on camptocamp.org in partnership with the Petzl Foundation. Petzl Foundation aims to conduct educational and risk prevention actions related to the practice of vertical activities. This documentation is available under the Creative Commons CC-by-nc-nd licence.
Author: Petzl
Source: petzl.com
Version: V1
Date: 27/01/2016
Commentaires
For questions concerning the use of Petzl products and technical advice, you can write directly to: technicalquestion@petzl.fr