Catégories : technique

Type d'article : individuel (CC by-nc-nd)

1. Installing the rope in the anchor

Make sure that the rappel station consists of two connected points. Tie a flat overhand bend. Securely tighten the knot connecting the two rope ends.

Note: a knot at the end of the rope is a necessary precaution in a variety of situations (long rappel, poor visibility, fatigue...).

2. Installing the friction hitch

The friction hitch can hold the user if he needs to release his hands during the rappel (falling rocks, knots in rope...).

• Installing the friction hitch before installing the descender helps create slack, which facilitates descender installation.

• Attach the friction hitch to the belay loop of the harness with a girth hitch, to make it drop resistant.

3. Installing the descender

• Attach the fixed arm of the DUAL CONNECT ADJUST to the descender.
• Install the strands of rope in the descender, remembering to lock the carabiner.

• Take up slack between the descender and the anchor, and between the descender and the friction hitch.
• Remove the adjustable arm from the anchor: you are ready to rappel.

4. Reaching the next anchor

To more easily reach the anchor, set the adjustable arm of your lanyard to its maximum length.

Once you have clipped the anchor and are on your feet, adjust the length of your lanyard.

5. Setting up for the next rappel

• Remove the rope from the descender and friction hitch.
• Attach the two ropes to the station so as not to lose them and to back up the second climber's descent.
• Remove the knots at the ends of the rope if necessary.
• Pass the rope end to be pulled through the quick link

6. Recovering the rope

Once the second climber is tied in, pull the rope.

The second pulls the appropriate rope end; the leader ensures that it runs smoothly through the quick link. Once the knot reaches the anchor, the lead climber may begin installing his friction hitch and descender. Once the two ropes have been recovered, the leader is ready to descend.

Author and source

This Petzl technical documentation is shared on camptocamp.org in partnership with the Petzl Foundation. Petzl Foundation aims to conduct educational and risk prevention actions related to the practice of vertical activities. This documentation is available under the Creative Commons CC-by-nc-nd licence.

Author: Petzl
Source: petzl.com
Version: V2
Date: 27/01/2016