Second climber stuck: hauling on a loaded rope (source Petzl)

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Catégories : technique
Type d'article : individuel (CC by-nc-nd)
Contributeur : Frédéric Bunoz

WARNINGS
- Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
- It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information.
- Mastering these techniques requires training.
- Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.

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1. Make a mule knot on one of the ropes, on the braking side of the REVERSO 4. This knot allows the rope to be released, freeing the hands for the maneuver.

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2. Install the MICRO TRAXION progress capture pulley on the other rope, on the load side. Check that the direction of the installation is appropriate for hauling (the MICRO TRAXION glides downward, blocks upward). Connect the MICRO TRAXION to a sling connected to the master point of the anchor.

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3. Use the carabiner as a handle in the carabiner hole of the REVERSO 4 to release the rope. The load is now transferred to the MICRO TRAXION.

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4. The MICRO TRAXION may be used as a progress capture pulley in simple or complex haul systems.

The choice of hauling system depends on the situation: the weight of the second, rope drag over rock, etc.
During hauling, continually take up the slack in the second rope end to maintain the back-up belay.

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Author and source

This Petzl technical documentation is shared on http://www.camptocamp.org in partnership with the Fondation Petzl. Petzl Foundation aims to conduct educational and risk prevention actions related to the practice of vertical activities. This documentation is available under the Creative Commons CC-by-nc-nd licence.

Author: Petzl
Source: petzl.com
Version: V1
Date: 27/01/2016

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Petzl 9 years ago

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