Belaying a second with the MICRO TRAXION = danger! (source Petzl)
WARNINGS
- Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
- It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information.
- Mastering these techniques requires training.
- Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.
The MICRO TRAXION is not a belay device.
Petzl has noted that some leaders use it to belay their second, mostly for comfort.
Warning, this very tricky operation requires great vigilance.
The advantages generally mentioned are
- ease of taking in slack for the leader,
- immediate fall arrest for the second, even if the leader isn't paying attention (!!!),
- and ease of aiding the second with a haul system if necessary.
For Petzl, the sum of these advantages does not justify using the MICRO TRAXION for belaying the second, especially considering the additional risks and drawbacks of this method.
Warnings:
-
Risk of damaging or cutting the rope in case of a factor 1 fall (or higher)
A factor 1 fall is a common risk for the second: traverses, too much slack, missed unclipping a point of protection... -
Icy or dirty rope can inhibit the functioning of the cam: risk of ineffective jamming in a fall, or when taking a rest
- If the second must descend, the MICRO TRAXION's cam must be disengaged: risk of a fall. A supplementary belay device must be installed on the rope before disengaging the cam.
Tests done at the Petzl test tower:
Case of a fall during a traverse close to the belay
- Factor 1 fall of 2 m in length onto 2 m of rope,
- with an 80 kg mannequin
- on 9.1 mm single rope
=> Impact force lower than 6 kN, damaged or broken sheath
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Tests done at the Petzl test tower:
Case of a fall during a traverse close to the belay
- Factor 1 fall of 2 m in length onto 2 m of rope,
- with an 80 kg mannequin
- on 8.1 mm half rope (1 strand)
=> Impact force lower than 6 kN, rope heavily damaged or cut
Conclusion:
Petzl does not recommend using the MICRO TRAXION to belay the second.
Progress capture pulleys are not belay devices. The REVERSO is the device created for belaying the leader and second in all situations, on single or half rope.
See detailed solutions for belaying the second in the REVERSO Instructions for Use.
Author and source
This Petzl technical documentation is shared on http://www.camptocamp.org in partnership with the Fondation Petzl. Petzl Foundation aims to conduct educational and risk prevention actions related to the practice of vertical activities. This documentation is available under the Creative Commons CC-by-nc-nd licence.
Author: Petzl
Source: petzl.com
Version: V1
Date: 28/01/2016
Commentaires
For questions concerning the use of Petzl products and technical advice, you can write directly to: technicalquestion@petzl.fr